8/8
A taxi takes me back to the bus terminal (12 thousand dong). I say to men idling outside that I have to go to Can Tho, and they show me a bus which is leaving immediately. In reality, this one is directed to Vinh Long, but the right coincidence crosses us at a very busy roundabout, where my transhipment takes place almost flying, at the clearing of a gas station. The new bus is really devastated, lacerated seats and foam splashing out, it seems that a bomb exploded!
I booked from Italy, simply writing to the owner, with no advance payments, a room at the Nan Mon Hotel. Recognizing the sign, I realize I’m passing right in front of it, so helped by some passengers who translate, I ask to get off, and save the money for the taxi.
Superior Room, 22 USD, really a gem, very modern, clean and comfortable. The owner is from Singapore, with perfect English. The staff here is very efficient and also very thoughtful!. Since it is a bit out of the centre, free bikes are available.
I book an excursion for tomorrow early morning to two floating markets, 42 USD, and then, by bicycle, I go to town.
Can Tho has about one million inhabitants, the main street has three lanes in each direction, the usual chaos, again, as the cyclists are the victims of any abuse concerning the give-way, but fortunately almost everyone here respect the red at traffic lights, and, being a little careful I have no particular problems. The impressive thing, at traffic lights, is to look back and see a huge army of motorcycles, waiting to spring. It’s a bit the same feeling you get when swimming in the sea, and you see from a distance a big wave approaching. Better to never look back, then! Even in Can Tho there is a traditional market, but I go through it quickly without paying too much attention. The center is about 10 minutes by bicycle from my hotel. Riverside is a couple of blocks parallel to the main road. The atmosphere is very relaxed, shady gardens and willows gently bent on the shore, a huge statue of Ho Chi Minh.
I eat lunch at a nice restaurant nearby, the Sao Hom, 60 thousand dong a vegetable soup
In the same building there is also a souvenir market, the usual things that are found everywhere, but a kiosk sells very pretty clothes, local style mixed with Western. Original.
I continue the visit and head of the military museum, free admission. Outside there are some war relics, a helicopter and a plane shot down, inside other devices, and many photographs.
At the evening I meet the Spanish Elena, with me at Cat Ba, and her Canadian friend Chloe. We chased throughout Vietnam, missed by a whisker in Hoi An and Nha Trang. Awful dinner at Gony, which does not look bad from the outside, I order Vietnamese and still survive, the other two girls have the unfortunate idea to order pizza, horrible, and wine, which seems rotten. The waiter says it’s Italian wine, but I doubt that our local vineyards can produce such crap.
After dinner, to remember the glorious times of Cat Ba we stop along the river, which in the meantime filled with stalls (especially food, even offering simple boiled eggs cooked at the moment), where the usual improvised bartenders sell beer, water and smoothies , and make you sit on old plastic stools.
We don’t stay till too late, because the next day I’m not the only going to markets. Elena, unlike me, has haggled an excursion directly with a boatman for 20 USD, against my 45. As surplus compared to her I have a guide who accompanies me, we’ll see if it’s worth it.
8/9 Can Tho – floating markets
At 5.30 at the reception I met Quyen, 24 years, my guardian angel for today; her accent is particular and it takes a while for me to get used. We leave at sunrise.
The first market we find is Cai Rang which is a wholesale, the boats are very large and, on the flagpole, is tied carrot, melon, depending on what they sell.
Later we reach a noodle factory, where there is a stifling heat
We come then to the second market, Phon Dieng, more intimate, small boats, which bought supplies at Cai Rang, now sell here retails. There are many tourists, and a considering mess
It’s 8.30, the sun is shining mercilessly. I’m dressed with long sleeves and long trousers, to prevent mosquitoes bite. I do not see even one of them, and I’m bursting with hot, but I’m happy because at least I won’t get sunburnt. After having extricated from a blockage formed by several junks, we navigate the smaller canals, then stop in a rustic bar for breakfast, and then for a little walk
Quyen knows many of the inhabitants, and translates
I spent so much for this excursion, but there is the added value. Quyen offers fruits she previously bought at the market to children, which I think is much better than give candies. We come back at around 13.30, it was a great experience, thanks to the presence of Quyen, but regarding the floating markets perhaps I expected more, even if I am not disappointed. But I think that with 20 USD I could have done even without a guide.
I take the bicycle to the city, where I spend the last few hours, eat twice excellent quality vegetarian food in a very cheap restaurant, the name I think is Phap Hoa Restaurant, spending first 26 thousand dong for a late lunch, then 82 thousand dong for dinner .
Today is the last day of Vietnam, and since I felt immediately at ease, I feel a little melancholy. The fact is that I am sorry to leave.